Filipino beef brisket goto made with glutinous rice, ginger, garlic, onions and rich broth, a hearty rice porridge perfect for cold weather. A steaming bowl shared in the middle of winter, rice thickened just right, beef melting into the broth, and warmth reaching further than the cold outside.#goto
It is my last days in Zurich and I finally have the chance to cook for everyone together. My mom, my sister, my nephew, my daughter, and myself all sharing the same meal. It sounds simple, but in the middle of hospital visits, nursing care routines, and winter days that blurred into each other, that moment felt heavy with meaning.
Outside, it was full winter. Thick snow fell almost daily, blanketing the streets and turning the short walk to the nursing care facility into a slow, careful journey. The cold was sharp, the kind that creeps into your bones, and it made you crave something warm long before hunger even set in. In weather like this, goto makes perfect sense. A thick, steaming bowl that warms your hands first, then your body, and finally your spirit.
Goto was chosen not just because it is soupy for my mom, but because it is filling enough for everyone else. One pot, one meal, one table, even if that table happened to be inside a care facility.
What Makes Goto Different From Other Lugaw
Goto is often grouped together with lugaw and arroz caldo, but it stands on its own. Traditionally, goto is defined by the use of ox tripe, slow cooked until tender, then folded into glutinous rice porridge flavoured heavily with ginger, garlic, and onions. The name itself comes from the Hokkien word gu-to, meaning ox tripe, a clear marker of its Chinese roots.
Historically, the dish was known as arroz caldo con goto, a Spanish named dish with Chinese technique and Filipino soul. Over time, Filipinos shortened the name, simplified the preparation, and turned it into everyday comfort food. It became something you ate for breakfast, after a long night, or when your body needed warmth and grounding.
Why Beef Brisket Instead of Tripe
Finding tripe in Zurich is not easy. Even with access to good butchers, offal is not always readily available. Instead of forcing the issue, I adapted. Beef brisket became the substitute, cut into small cubes and slow cooked until tender.
Brisket brings its own character to the dish. It is meaty, rich, and deeply beefy. Browning the beef first added colour and depth, especially important since I did not have annatto seeds. That step alone transformed the broth, giving it a darker, more robust base that worked beautifully with the rice.
This version became less of a street style goto and more of a family style one. Still familiar, still comforting, but shaped by circumstance and location.
Goto as Cold Weather Comfort
Goto is already comforting by nature, but in snowy weather, it becomes something else entirely. Each spoonful feels restorative. The heat from the ginger cuts through the cold. The rice thickens the broth into something that stays warm longer. The beef gives it substance, making it satisfying without being heavy.
For my mom, it ticked all the boxes. It was soupy, gentle, and easy to eat. For the rest of us, it was hearty and filling, especially with rice already built in. It was the kind of dish that made the cold outside feel distant, even just for a moment.
A Bowl Shared as Family
What mattered most was not how traditional the dish was, but that it allowed us to sit together, eat together, and feel normal together, even briefly. My mom ate slowly, but she ate. My daughter and nephew finished their bowls. My sister smiled, and really enyoued it. That alone made the effort worth it.
Goto has always been about nourishment. Not just physical nourishment, but emotional too. On that snowy Zurich day, it did exactly what it was meant to do.
Season the beef brisket generously with salt and black pepper.
Heat cooking oil in a large heavy pot over medium high heat.
Brown the beef in batches until well coloured on all sides. This step adds depth and colour, especially important when annatto is not used. Remove the beef and set aside.
Add the chopped onion and julienned ginger, cooking until soft and fragrant.
Add the rinsed glutinous rice to the pot. Stir for about 2 minutes to coat the grains in oil and aromatics. Pour in the fish sauce and stir well so the rice absorbs the seasoning.
Pour in 10 to 12 cups of the reserved beef broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer.
Add the beef brisket back into the pot. Stir frequently to prevent sticking.
Cook for 40 minutes until the rice breaks down and the porridge becomes thick and creamy. Add more broth or water if needed.
Ladle into bowls and top with fried garlic, spring onions, and hard boiled eggs.
I learned to eat tripe, made the French way, back in Europe way back in my childhood – loved it then, would love it now . . . but see you have made a tasty and memorable dish out of the alternate beef required. Ginger and glutinous rice bring it to our side of the world . . . but its look and flavour would not be hard to duplicate. Recalling it enjoyed en famille makes it even more special to be remembered . . .
I am a huge fan of beef brisket, and this dish sounds delicious! But more important than the flavor was the communal aspect of sharing this meal with your family. :-)
I learned to eat tripe, made the French way, back in Europe way back in my childhood – loved it then, would love it now . . . but see you have made a tasty and memorable dish out of the alternate beef required. Ginger and glutinous rice bring it to our side of the world . . . but its look and flavour would not be hard to duplicate. Recalling it enjoyed en famille makes it even more special to be remembered . . .
Ohh what is that French dish?
I am a huge fan of beef brisket, and this dish sounds delicious! But more important than the flavor was the communal aspect of sharing this meal with your family. :-)
Ohhhhhh myyyyyyy. This sounds amazing!!!
Your adaptation from trip to brisket is nice, though I think I would love the original with tripe. Such a nice, comforting bowl…
Yeah tripe is better but with brisket it adds more beefiness in the dish. If there was a tripe, I will use brisket and tripe together
I love beef brisket! This looks really amazing, Raymund. Hokkien word gu-to, meaning ox tripe?? Really? Have never heard of it..
From my quick reasearch, trusty old Wikipedia “Tagalog goto, ultimately derives from Hokkien 牛肚 (gû-tǒ͘, “ox tripe”)”